From TLC’s 90s red carpet looks and Julia Fox’s camp condom top, to Gaultier’s longstanding crusade for safe sex, we chart the prophylactics’ rubbery grip on fashion history
Whether used for artistic shock value or to spark important conversations, the humble condom has long permeated the cultural zeitgeist and continues to slap conservative media in the face with blazing bravado. Who could forget the time this very magazine had Azealia Banks blowing up a rubber johnny on its cover in 2012, which led to it being banned in seven countries?
But this summer particularly, there’s something in the air. From the massive pile of red Durex boxes at Diesel’s AW23 show, to Rihanna's recent showcasing of an oversized “USE A CONDOM” tee – donned to promote her tongue-in-cheek Savage x Fenty collection I’m A Virgin and indebted to the sexual politics of Katharine Hamnett – condoms continue their streak of cropping up across fashion.
With that in mind, strap in as we trace its history – from TLC’s red carpet looks in the 90s to recent campaigns from Gaultier and Glenn Martens.
LET'S TALK ABOUT AIDS
Coupled with the ‘no glove, no love’ rationale of the early 90s, TLC fuelled red-carpet controversy by pinning condom packets to their garments and over the lenses of their glasses. The purpose? Destigmatising condom use and educating their female fanbase on the possible ramifications of unprotected sex - from unplanned pregnancy and STIs to AIDS.
Fast forward to the internet age, when transgressive icon Lady Gaga balanced camp and cutting-edge as the condom personified. Appearing on ABC's Good Morning America in 2011 for MAC’s Viva Glam promotion – which saw proceeds going to HIV and AIDS prevention – Gaga debuted a brazen nude latex concoction designed by Atsuko Kudo in collaboration with Mugler. Then, in 2013, she performed as a life-size condom, courtesy of Jean-Paul Gaultier, for an unforgettable rendition of the braggadocious “Fashion!” alongside RuPaul.
A comparably ingenious move, Gaultier's 2021 Safe Sex Foreversock-condom campaign, owing to continued fundraising efforts towards HIV and AIDS research, reignited the nostalgic spark of his beloved 1996 Cyber Baba tattoo meshes.
BALLOON BRANDING
Condoms are no stranger to luxury makeovers, from Benettonand BOYCRAZY‘s limited edition packaging, to the print patterns of Saint Laurent’s 2019 Rive Droite exclusives. Marc Jacobs‘ 2008 iterations served as a notable precursor to the craze through eBay listings for $1.99 a piece, containing this message to buyers “Remember, safety first! xxoo, Marc Jacobs.”
As hype grew so did imitation. 2021’s Louis Vuitton bootlegs sent Twitter in a frenzy. Sold online as $68 12-packs, these creations were the brainchild of artist Irakli Kiziria for Design Provocation. Similarly, graphic designer Mikaël Barelaud Eludut's silver “SAFE” Off-White™mock-ups were posted onto Instagram in 2017 as portfolio-building pastiche.
Alexander Wang x Trojan’s 2018 “Protect Your Wang” capsule succeeded in strategy thanks to co-branded condom giveaways at NYC’s Pride March, with proceeds going to the LGBT Center of New York’s sexual health programs. H&M and Moschino’s viral foray later that same year is as mainstream as it gets, scouting Drag Race winner Aquaria to model gold crystal earrings and handbags in the shape of johnnies for Jeremy Scott.
ACTION PLASTIC
“The future of fashion is designed and made in collaboration with nature”, proclaimed Botter, whose SS23 show railed against marine pollution and cemented condom couture in the history books – the Paris-based label sent models down the runway with water-filled condoms strapped onto their hands like gloves.
FOR THE GLOVE OF MONEY
2023’s hottest ready-to-wear partnership between Diesel and Durex is a masterclass in condom consumerism, with t-shirts, hoodies, baseball caps, and denim in high demand. An ode to the sex-positive out there, Glenn Martens AW23 collection was a celebration of all-things pleasure and play, culminating in an additional collab with sex toy connoisseur LELO. Following a 200,000 condom centre-piece at February Milan Fashion Week, 300,000 Diesel x Durex condoms are being given away free through all monobrand stores and selected global distributors.
MAGNUM MUSINGS
Fast forward from Gaga’s out-there condom looks and Julia Fox is flying the flag for the prophylactic through her own fashion choices. In May 2023, the star was seen pounding the pavements of Manhattan in a latex top crafted from a heap of condoms – freeing the nipple in the process. Of course, the paps went wild, and the condom’s tight, rubbery grip on fashion goes on.