As per the depths of every December, we’re mid-way through another of fashion’s global tours as the industry’s biggest brands do their best to outdo each other with their blockbuster pre-fall destination shows. First up was Louis Vuitton, which saw Pharrell whisk the fashion crowd to Hong Kong for a dramatic waterside extravaganza, and later this week Prada will land in Shanghai and Chanel the slightly less exotic but no less exciting streets of Manchester. Before all that, though, is the small matter of Balenciaga’s Fall 24 show, which saw Demna drop us in the middle of Los Angeles and pen a love letter to Hollywood and the mad melting pot of people who live here. Didn’t score a ticket? Here’s everything you need to know.

THE LOCATION WAS CAMP AS FUCK

Ahead of the show the details surrounding it were kept under lock and key – usually you can squeeze a little info from a friendly PR, but on this occasion their lips were sealed. The car ride to the event took us to the centre of ‘old Hollywood’, where the movie stars and studio execs made their homes as the city was founded, before they all headed for the seclusion of the hills above. Rolling past mega McMansions, eventually we turned a corner and landed on the palm-lined South Windsor Boulevard, which parts at the perfect point to catch a glimpse of the Hollywood sign in the background. As well as the 600 guests in attendance, residents of the bougie Hancock Park neighbourhood also got a great spot for the show, as they peeped out their windows or stepped out onto their manicured green lawns. 

WHERE TO EVEN BEGIN WITH THE GUESTLIST? 

To say the stars turned out would be a complete understatement – just about all of Hollywood showed up. New Balenciaga ambassador – and former runway model – Nicole Kidman made her way down the street in a black velvet couture column dress, bumping into Nine Perfect Strangers co-star Samara Weaving, before rapper Sexyy Red stepped in front of the house photographer using a stack of dollar bills like a cellphone. Ashton Sanders was somehow kitted out in a floor-length wool coat despite the early afternoon temperatures hitting the mid-20s, but then, that’s fashion baby! Bottoms’ Rachel Sennott went for a souped-up tracksuit with a prissy pussy-bow, and filled us in on what she’d do in an alien invasion (head to TikTok to find out), while Amelia Gray offered up her ideal In N’ Out order and told us men were overrated. When just about everyone was in their seats, Kendall Jenner turned up alongside Kim Kardashian, who looked like she’d stopped by the grocery store on the way: in her hand was what looked like a paper Erewhon bag holding a bunch of flowers she would later give to Demna as a congratulatory post-show gift. 

…WHICH LEADS US ON TO THE COLLAB

You’ve probably spotted them all over Instagram by now, but if not, Balenciaga dropped a bottled black charcoal drink with bolshy branding plastered across it with everyone’s fave cult grocery store Erewhon ahead of the show. It was to be a pre-cursor to the main event, since Demna linked up with the brand to also debut a leather iteration of its signature brown carrier bag – a La La Land update on the grey Balenciaga bags he’s been churning out since taking the helm of the house. 

THE SOUNDTRACK CHANNELLED THE USA’S RAMPANT CONSUMERISM

After closing the SS24 Balenciaga show in Paris just over two months ago, Demna’s husband BFRND stayed in the wings this season, crafting a jarring soundtrack that channelled the rampant consumerism that underpins American life. Over a typically harsh techno beat, sardonic, disjointed voices narrated ads for coffee companies and miracle weight loss drugs, with the whole thing inspired by Demna’s experiences of driving around LA: “You sit in traffic for hours and it’s all just ads on the radio,” he explained backstage.

THE COLLECTION WAS AN UN-IRONIC LOVE LETTER TO LA

Demna was quick to clear up any misconception that his fall collection was rooted in irony backstage, with the show intended as a celebration of the celebrity culture he grew up with and loved back when he was a kid growing up in Georgia, but it still felt like a wink in that direction.

Like a 2023 update on that mega iconic Steven Meisel Hollywood Style editorial from the January 2005 issue of Vogue Italia, the designer’s cast stomped down the street in popping Juicy Couture sweat sets and pumped-up UGGs, Balenci coffee cups clutched in their hands, slouchy denim jeans slung low enough to catch a glimpse of a whale-tail thong, cell phones clamped to their ears like celebrities at the gas station posing for the paps.

Elsewhere, black-clad health goths looked fresh from the gym, baristas got the Balenciaga treatment thanks to double-B branded aprons, and the hot Rodeo Drive totty came decked out in Demna’s take on Chanel’s classic tweed suit. Later came the red carpet looks, with one model gliding down the catwalk in a huge white feathered coat, and others stepping into severe suiting with shoulders that looked even bigger than usual or high-shine vinyl dresses that gave new meaning to looking good in a bin bag. 

THE BALENCIAGA CURVE MODELS WERE BACK

Balenciaga’s runways under Demna’s rule have always been a place for diverse, uniquely beautiful models who wouldn’t necessarily score slots at other houses, but until SS24, the designer hadn’t cast anyone above a sample size. That all changed with his inclusion of French singer Yseult and supermodel Paloma Elsesser, and it seems that, unlike at many other houses, it’s a move that’s going to stick – there were two curve models cast this season, with one storming the runway in an oversized shirt and those XXL UGG boots, and another exuding red carpet glam in a floor-sweeping black body-con gown. 

…AND CARDI WALKED

The B stands for Balenciaga, you know. Head here for more on that.