The London-based designer was whisked over to MFW for a one-season whirlwind
Feben Vemmenby has just returned from Milan Fashion Week. “I’ve only been to Milan a couple of times, once when I was younger and then when I was in my 20s,” she shares, before adding an important caveat, “but I love pizza!”
The London-based designer is the latest name to receive support from Milan mainstay Dolce & Gabbana under its Supported By initiative, following in the footsteps of designers including Karoline Vitto, Matty Bovan, Miss Sohee, and Tomo Koizumi – each invited to present a one-off collection at MFW. “Feben’s creativity is energetic, vital and sensual,” the design duo shared on this season’s choice. “We very much love her authentic approach and her focus on handmade items. Her collaborations with artisans from all over the world have convinced us to support her work.”
For her sojourn in Milan, the designer wanted to pay homage to her supporters – merging the worlds of Feben and D&G. “I looked at earlier Dolce & Gabbana collections, a lot of the references come from 90s collections,” she says. “That’s what I think of typical Dolce and Gabbana: animal prints. It’s very woman and very sexy.”
Speed – the title of the AW24 collection – had the designer musing on the speed of big cats beloved by both the design duo and mob wives everywhere, as well as the speed of life, London, and the dynamism of Jean-Paul Goude’s iconic image of Naomi Campbell sprinting alongside a cheetah. In the collection, her take was initially created out of duct tape, later transformed into a print that covered jersey bodysuits and maxi dresses. Utilising the studio’s resources allowed her to experiment with tailoring, crafting boxy nipped-waist jackets in black and cerulean. “It was really incredible to have the technicians, they’re my new besties and I love them so much,” she enthuses. “The women behind the scenes should be uplifted because they’re really the force behind it.”
Despite dipping a finger in the Dolce sauce, fans of Feben won’t be disappointed this season. Her signature bobbled dresses returned with rollnecks or given an Italiano twist with puffed exaggerated shoulders. Elsewhere, va va voom was served by Ashley Graham, who closed the show in a figure-hugging LBD that would look right at home on Sophia Loren. “I wanted to cast more girls that are considered curve, but they weren’t in Milan, they just weren’t there,” the designer says. “I always want to have different body types because I think it’s important that people feel welcomed. Anyone should be able to find something that they can style in their own way.”
“I always want to have different body types because I think it’s important that people feel welcomed. Anyone should be able to find something that they can style in their own way.”
But il cacio sui maccheroni – that’s the cheese on the macaroni – was a trio of backless halternecks that exploded into a frisson of fringe and beads handcrafted by Ghanaian artisans. “I wanted to play with different textures,” the designer explains on the craft behind the showstoppers. “In those dresses, you have the PVC, digitally printed satin, and then the fringe. The movement is really good and it works for all body types.”
Back in London and reflecting, Feben is grateful for the platform Supported By Dolce and Gabbana and the support that has allowed her to grow her burgeoning brand. “The opportunity gives you more time to develop your work and having a bigger team behind you means that you’re more likely happier with the end result,” she explains. “It’s not just me, it’s also my team that is given the opportunity to go and work in Milan. I’m happy that I can uplift them while they’re uplifting me on this journey – it’s a win-win.”
As a Black woman in fashion – still unfortunately a minority in the industry – the designer is hopeful that the doors that have been opened for her this season will be afforded to other creatives like her. “I wanted to do a good job and utilise the opportunity so that other people like me are given it too,” she reflects. “It’s brought me to a bigger audience and it’s such a good thing that they’re doing, I think other brands should be doing it too. It’s so important to foster young brands.”