From shitting in the woods with Hollywood heartthrobs to joining forces with Saint Laurent, the photographer needs to live life to the fullest
About halfway through Juergen Teller’s new photo book, i need to live, the photographer catches himself in a compromising position with Swedish actor Alexander Skarsgård. In a series of images taken on a trip to the Arctic Circle, Teller can be seen defecating in the snowy woods, while Skarsgård stands agog, at one point poking the German photographer with a stick. The scene unfolds over the course of six or seven images, before a final closing frame of Teller’s close-up behind, his faecal protrusion sticking firmly into the air.
Apologies to those who might be reading this over breakfast, but for the initiated among us, body horror absurdity is just part and parcel of Teller’s work. While admittedly quite hilarious, this kind of can-I-shock-you provocation has been a dimension of Teller’s since the very beginning, which is why the images fit perfectly in his current exhibition, also titled i need to live. And after the success of its Paris run at the Grand Palais Éphémère, the show is popping over the Med and setting up shop in Italy, where it’s just opened at Milan’s Triennale musuem. The 1000-piece exhibition, which combines archival works with newly commissioned images, videos and installations, is described as “Teller’s reaction to existential incidents which have shaped his life, sometimes in tragic ways… [celebrating] the value of being alive, whilst acknowledging the fragility of human existence.”
As the official partner of i need to live, Saint Laurent has also collaborated with Teller on an accompanying capsule of cotton tees and homeware bits, all emblazoned with evocative prints from the collection. The collaboration is the fruit of Teller and Anthony Vaccarello’s close working relationship, which is summed up by one of the t-shirts in the capsule, a written note scrawled in Teller’s own hand. “After every season Anthony and I look at each other and say ‘chic no?’” the t-shirt reads, before adding “and we carry on.” Very chic indeed.
Below, we grab Teller for a round of quickfire Qs, from his Saint Laurent collab, the contents of his camera roll, and the state of fashion right now.
How did you get started working with Saint Laurent and what was the first thing you shot for them?
Juergen Teller: I started working with Anthony in 2016 with the campaign we shot in Lake Como and we worked together ever since. But, actually, the very first time I worked with Saint Laurent was a campaign I did in 1997.
What do you keep in mind when shooting with them?
Juergen Teller: I keep in mind the clothes. And I listen very carefully to Anthony’s ideas and together we work very closely and we achieve something we are both very proud of.
Do you have a fave Saint Laurent campaign – your own or a historic one – and why do you love it?
Juergen Teller: My first one with Anthony and the last one we just shot.
What would you eat off a plate with your photo on it? Like, what is your death row meal?
Juergen Teller: Spaghetti vongole.
There’s a record in the capsule collection – what song do you have stuck in your head right now? And what song do you never get sick of?
Juergen Teller: “Tiny Dancer” by Elton John. Because we played it for our daughter Iggy and this is her favourite song. Also “Your Song” by Elton John.
What’s the last photo on your iPhone of?
Juergen Teller: [German painter and sculptor] Anselm Kiefer looking at my show at the Grand Palais Éphémère with pure amazement.
What’s on your rider when you’re going on a shoot?
Juergen Teller: I don’t have a rider.
What’s one piece of advice you’d give someone starting out in fashion photography now?
Juergen Teller: Think about what you want to do and do your own work.
What do you think about the state of fashion right now?
Juergen Teller: Grim and exciting at the same time.
Fave fashion moment of 2023?
Juergen Teller: People tell me it’s Maggie Smith for the Loewe campaign, which I photographed.
Juergen Teller’s i need to live is open at Triennale di Milano, Viale Emilio Alemagna, 6, 20121 Milano until April 1.